Over the past 10 days, a small but determined crowd proved just how anxious officials are in the face of nationalistic rumblings. A group of Communists, nationalists and others gathered three times to protest joint maneuvers by the Pacific Fleet and the U.S. 7th Fleet.
They were upset that U.S. Marines were scheduled to storm beaches on the outskirts of the city Aug. 6 to 8 as part of joint exercises with the Russian navy. The crowd never grew greater than 200 in a city where you can drum up 1,000 protesters at the drop of a hat. But they managed to push the two great powers into changing the location of their maneuvers after Gov. Yevgeny Nazdratenko, Duma Chairman Sergei Dudnik, and others joined their criticism of the presence of American armed forces.
It is understandable that both Americans and the Pacific Fleet were sensitive to what they perceived to be local sensibilities. What is unfortunate is that politicians thought they had something to gain by playing to the crowd.
They are wrong. Despite the protesters’ volume, what is most striking is how out-of-touch their complaints are. Vladivostok is remarkably friendly to foreigners, whether sailors or visiting businessmen scouting out opportunities. While American tourists face a range of trials abroad – from sneering waiters in Paris to terrorists in Egypt – they have been welcome in Vladivostok ever since the city opened in 1991.
In 1996, when foreign sailors were still a novelty in Vladivostok, children swarmed around visiting Americans like rock stars, asking for autographs and begging for sailors’ hats. The welcome continues. After a visit by a foreign ship, the Vladivostok News’ Web site guest book is always filled with laudatory comments from sailors about the city and its friendly people.
Americans try to match Vladivostok-style hospitality. One Pacific Fleet officer told television reporters that when the Russian troops paraded the streets of Honolulu during joint exercises there, people lined up to cheer and wave Russian flags.
We like to think that Communists will be left scratching their heads at the success of their protests. This freedom of speech business actually works, they might conclude. It would be an interesting lesson for the party that spent 70 years crushing free expression in Russia.
They might consider the words of U.S. Vice Adm. Harry Highfall, who was greeted by anti-American protesters at the dockside. “This is the voice of freedom,” he said, “and it doesn’t bother us at all.”